We spent our first two days and our last four days in Buenos Aires in the funky and wildly fun neighbourhood of San Telmo. In between we moved to another part of town for five days, but I will tell you about that in another post. San Telmo was our first glimpse of BA and it was fantastico!
San Telmo used to be a low-rent neighbourhood full of artists. However, like artsy neighbourhoods all over the world, rich people started moving in and rents went through the roof.
A side note on renting in Buenos Aires: we caught up with a guy we’d met in Santiago and his American girlfriend for dinner in Buenos Aires. They were in the process of renting a place together and were telling us some horror stories. Apparently, in order to secure an apartment in BA, you have to have a family member (it has to be family) guarantee you will pay the rent. The family member must earn a high enough wage to meet the requirement. If you don’t pay your rent, the rent will automatically be taken from the family member. Oh, and each person can only guarantee rent for one other person. So if you had two older siblings, and your parents are each guarantors for one of them, you’re kind of screwed.
So, anyway… San Telmo is now full to bursting with trendy cafes, amazing clothing and art shops and restaurants of every cuisine imaginable. There is also a famous antiques market on Sundays.
The market features way more than antiques! There were local artists selling handmade jewelry, vintage clothes, fresh juice stands and performance artists of all kinds. The market was packed with fashionable Portenos (people who live in BA) as well as chubby tourists from Ohio… and everyone was having fun!
We found an amazing little cafe just down the road from our hostel and visited fequently for coffees, drinks, and lunch. By the time we left BA we were starting to feel like San Telmo locals!